Talk Story at the Kuleana Rum Shack
Every once in a while you get the opportunity to really enjoy your work. My afternoon at the Kuleana Rum Shack was one of those magical moments where I felt the mana of the islands. Just like when I was on Kauai talking story with the owners of the Kauai Roastery, my afternoon with lead mixologist, Doug Sessions, and James Dumas, general manager at the Kuleana Rum Works was educational and spirited. And, what did those two visits have in common? Both times I had the opportunity to talk with craftsmen who are passionate about the products they are creating.
I’ve been following the Kuleana story since summer of 2017 when I met one of the founders’ wives at a BlogHer Summit. A post pitch conversation led to my following her journey as their family relocated to the Big Island. Our first visit to the Kuleana Rum Shack was in March 2018 when we had a kid-less escape. At that time I didn’t love the rums. After talking with James and Doug this trip, I now understand why I couldn’t get enough of them this time.
Kuleana Rum Works was born on Hawaiʻi Island in 2013 to make and share exquisite rum while creating a thriving local business that celebrates the richness of Hawaiʻi. Their intention was to create high-quality rums without added sweeteners, flavors, or colors. Their premium rums are made two ways: by distilling fresh Hawaiian sugarcane juice into elegant rum agricole using 40 varieties of kō (Hawaiian heirloom sugarcane) grown in Kohala, Hawaii; and by blending rums from around the world – carefully chosen for their purity and rich taste – into delicious and flavorful products not available anywhere else in the world.
Doug, who’s been on the Big Island for most of his life, went to school thinking he’d be a chemist. He discovered that he loved serving others and making people happy, and wanted to be part of the distillery from the first time he heard about it. So, he went there often and left his card asking if they needed an apprentice. About a year later a friend connected him up and he’s been at Kuleana ever since. Doug considers the Kuleana Rum Shack to be the only craft cocktail bar on the island.
While Doug started filling the many orders for their signature drinks, I got a chance to learn a little more about James. James has been an executive chef as well as a whiskey purveyor—most recently at High West Distillery. He spends his time between snow (Utah) and sun. After talking with him, I feel that creating premium rum is much like wine.
I learned that there are several variables that can affect the sugar cane—water level, soil, and getting the ripeness level just right. One day the sugarcane might be more lemongrass and other days jasmine. And depending on the cane, the distilling process can be 48 hours or it can be 96. All of this explains why I enjoyed every glass of rum this time. If my trip to the Big Island had been a few days longer, I would have taken James up on his offer to go out to the farm and see the process from farm to glass.
We also had a chance to preview a possible small batch super-premium. It tasted so wonderful that I might have to come back to the Big Island sooner than later. Until then, please enjoy this special behind-the-bar video with Doug as he makes the Kuleana Agricole Maid.
The special version Doug creates in the video differs from The Hawaiian Maid (recipe included in the kit) in that it uses both Kuleana Rum Works Agricole and tequila. Rum agricole is made from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice. Because rum agricole requires expert crafting and fresh sugarcane, less than five percent of the world's rums are made as agricole. These “canoe plants” are thought to be brought to Hawai’I 1,000 years ago by the original Polynesian wayfinders.
Kuleana Agricole Maid
1.5 oz Kuleana Rum Works Agricole
.5 oz. blanco tequila
.75 oz. Fresh Lime Juice
.5 oz. Simple Syrup
6 Mint Leaves
2 Cucumber Slices
Combine liquid ingredients and ice, gently shake. Strain into the glass with the cucumber ribbon. Top with mint leaves.
Kuleana Rums are available in the following states: HI, AZ, CA, CO, NV, TX, UT, WA To find a store near you, check their locator.